Diamond Shapes Explained: How to Choose the Cut That Looks Best on Your Hand

Last Updated on 3rd November 2025

When people talk about a diamond’s shape, they’re usually referring to how the stone is cut from above: what you’d see if you looked down at it while it’s set in a ring. The shape gives the diamond its basic outline, whether that’s round, oval, square or something more unique. It also plays a big role in how the diamond looks on your hand, how much it sparkles and how large or small it appears.

Shape also affects more than just style. It can influence how big a diamond looks on the finger, how much it sparkles, how it pairs with different ring settings, and even how much you pay for it. For example, elongated shapes like oval and emerald cuts often look larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight.

The Classic 8 Diamond Shapes

This guide gives you a quick introduction to all the popular diamond shapes. You’ll get the essentials for each one, along with a link to a more in-depth article where you can dive deeper into that specific shape. Whether you’re drawn to the timeless round or something more distinct like a pear or marquise, this page will help you get a clear starting point.

All Diamond Shapes at a Glance

There’s no shortage of options when it comes to diamond shapes, but some stand out more than others, both in looks and in popularity. This quick comparison gives you a feel for how each shape performs in terms of sparkle, price and how big it tends to look on the finger. It’s meant as a starting point, so you can compare them side by side and see which ones might be worth exploring further.

Shape Popularity Sparkle Face-Up Size Price/Carat Style Vibe
Round 28-43% ✦✦✦✦✦ Moderate Highest Classic
Oval 15-25% ✦✦✦✦ Looks Larger Lower Elegant
Cushion 8-15% ✦✦✦✦ Slightly Smaller Lower Vintage Soft
Princess 8-13% ✦✦✦✦ Moderate Lower Bold/Modern
Emerald 7-13% ✦✦ Looks Larger Moderate Sophisticated
Radiant 5% ✦✦✦✦½ Moderate Moderate Sparkly Modern
Pear 5% ✦✦✦✦ Looks Larger Lower Romantic
Marquise 2% ✦✦✦✦ Looks Largest Lower Bold/Dramatic
Asscher 2% ✦✦✦ Smaller Moderate Art Deco
Heart 1% ✦✦✦✦ Moderate Lower Whimsical
Octagon <0.1% ✦✦✦✦✦ Moderate High Modern Precision

The round brilliant continues to lead by a wide margin and has actually been the most popular diamond shape ever since modern diamond cutting began. Its sparkle, symmetry and timeless appeal make it a safe choice for just about any setting or style. The ideal proportions for maximizing brilliance were first defined by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919 and those guidelines still influence how round diamonds are cut today.

But beyond the classic round trends have shifted. About ten years ago, the princess cut was the clear second favorite, loved for its sharp corners and modern appeal. In more recent years though, oval cuts have taken over the second spot, thanks to their soft edges, elegant look and flattering finger coverage.

Popular Diamond Shapes

Each diamond shape offers its own look, feel and personality. In this section, you’ll find a quick overview of the most popular shapes on the market today. These summaries are short by design, just enough to give you the basics before diving into the full guide for each shape.

Round Cut Diamond

The round brilliant cut is the most popular diamond shape on the market today. It consistently leads engagement ring sales, making up an estimated 28% to 43% of all purchases. With 58 precisely arranged facets, it’s optimized for maximum brilliance, fire and scintillation, no other shape reflects light as efficiently.

It’s also the only shape with a standardized cut grading system, which gives buyers more confidence when comparing stones. You’ll also find the widest inventory available for round cut diamonds, both natural and lab-grown. That means it’s easier to compare options and shop based on cut precision, price or availability. But it also means you’ll need to know how to filter out the average ones.

Why people choose it:

  • Unmatched sparkle
  • Easy to evaluate (cut is officially graded)
  • Works with any ring style: from timeless to modern

Potential downside:
Because more rough diamond is lost during cutting, round diamonds cost more per carat than most other shapes. You’ll get slightly less visible size for the same budget compared to shapes like oval or pear.

Prices start around $3,320 for a 1.02 ct G VS2 GIA-certified Round cut.

Read my full Round Cut Diamond Guide.

Oval Cut Diamond

The oval cut has quickly become one of the most sought-after diamond shapes in recent years. It offers a unique blend of classic brilliance and modern elegance, with a longer shape that flatters the finger and often looks larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight.

Oval diamonds share the same faceting style as round brilliants, so they still offer excellent sparkle, just with a slightly softer, elongated silhouette. This makes them a favorite for anyone looking for a graceful, high-sparkle look with a little twist.

Why people choose it:

  • Looks larger for its carat weight
  • Has a slimming effect on the finger
  • Balances sparkle with a more elongated, elegant shape

Potential downside:
Oval diamonds often show a bow-tie effect, a dark area across the center that can make the stone look uneven. This varies from diamond to diamond, so it’s important to evaluate each one visually.

Prices start around $3,110 for a 1.01 ct G VS2 GIA-certified Oval cut.

Read my full Oval Cut Diamond Guide.

Cushion Cut Diamond

The cushion cut is a soft, romantic shape that blends a square or slightly rectangular outline with rounded corners and a pillow-like appearance, which is where it got its name from. It’s also one of the oldest diamond shapes still in use today, originally developed in the 1700s, but has seen a major comeback thanks to its vintage charm and versatility.

Cushion cuts can have different faceting styles. Some are more traditional with broader flashes of light, while others known as “crushed ice” cushions have a more glittery, broken-up sparkle pattern. This variety gives buyers room to find exactly the look they want.

Cushion cut diamonds come in two main sparkle styles and the difference comes down to how the facets are arranged. Some are more traditional “cushion brilliant” cuts, which show broad, structured flashes of light, similar to what you’d see in a regular round cut. Others often labeled “crushed ice” cushion cuts have a more glittery, broken-up sparkle pattern with chaotic light reflections. This variety gives buyers room to find exactly the look they want. Whether you prefer clean, bold flashes or a shimmering, icy appearance, it’s worth comparing the two styles side by side before choosing.

Why people choose it:

  • Romantic, vintage-inspired look
  • Often more affordable per carat than rounds
  • Comes in different styles (classic or crushed ice)

Potential downside:
Cushion cuts tend to face up smaller than most shapes, especially when compared to oval or radiant cuts. And the wide range of facet patterns means some cushions sparkle more than others, so visual inspection is key.

Prices start around $2,120 for a 1.02 ct G VS2 GIA-certified Cushion cut.

Read my full Cushion Cut Diamond Guide.

Princess Cut Diamond Ring

The princess cut is a bold, angular shape that brings modern energy to a diamond ring. It’s square from the top but features intricate faceting underneath that gives it a strong, geometric sparkle. This shape became extremely popular in the early 2000s and was the second most chosen diamond shape for many years, only recently overtaken by the oval cut.

Princess cut diamonds are often priced lower per carat than round brilliants, and they offer excellent fire when well-cut. Their sharp corners and clean lines make them a favorite for anyone who prefers a more structured, contemporary look.

Why people choose it:

  • Strong sparkle with a sharp, modern feel
  • Square shape stands out next to traditional round or oval cuts
  • Typically lower price per carat than round diamonds

Potential downside:
The corners of a princess cut can be fragile and more prone to chipping if not properly protected by prongs. Also, some stones can show a slightly darker center if the pavilion is too deep, so proportions matter more than people think.

Prices start around $2,550 for a 1.01 ct G VS2 GIA-certified Princess cut.

Read my full Princess Cut Diamond Guide.

Emerald Cut Diamond

The emerald cut is a refined, elegant shape known for its clean lines and mirror-like sparkle. Instead of the brilliant facet pattern seen in round or oval cuts, emerald diamonds use step cuts. These are long, narrow facets arranged in parallel which produce a more subtle flash of light. It’s less about glitter and more about graceful clarity and symmetry.

Emerald cuts are a favorite among those who prefer a minimal, architectural look. They tend to face up larger than many other shapes, and their elongated silhouette can give the finger a longer, slimmer appearance.

Why people choose it:

  • Understated elegance with a vintage feel
  • Shows off clarity and symmetry beautifully
  • Looks larger for its carat weight

Potential downside:
Because of the open, step-cut design, inclusions are easier to spot and color can be more noticeable. It’s a shape where cut and clarity matter a lot, so it pays to choose carefully.

Prices start around $3,990 for a 1.01 ct G VS1 GIA-certified Emerald cut.

Read my full Emerald Cut Diamond Guide.

Radiant Cut Diamond

The radiant cut combines the fiery brilliance of a round diamond with the clean shape of an emerald or princess cut. It has a rectangular or square outline with trimmed corners and a brilliant-style facet pattern, making it one of the most sparkly fancy-shaped diamonds available.

Radiant cuts are especially popular among those who want maximum sparkle in a more modern or elongated shape. They also tend to hide inclusions and color better than step-cut shapes, which gives you more flexibility when choosing clarity or color grades.

Why people choose it:

  • Intense sparkle, second only to the round cut
  • Bold shape that blends classic and modern
  • Hides inclusions and color well

Potential downside:
Radiant cuts are rarely perfectly standardized. The length-to-width ratio can vary a lot, so it’s important to choose the shape you like best, whether that’s a square radiant or a longer rectangle. They also tend to face up a bit smaller than other elongated cuts.

Prices start around $2,610 for a 1.01 ct G VS2 GIA-certified Radiant cut.

Read my full Radiant Cut Diamond Guide.

Pear Shaped Diamond

The pear shaped diamond combines the brilliance of a round cut with the tapered elegance of a marquise. It’s essentially a hybrid: rounded on one end and pointed on the other which gives it a distinctive teardrop silhouette. This shape adds a graceful, flowing feel to any ring and is especially flattering when worn with the point facing outward toward the fingertip.

Pear cuts are a strong choice if you want something elegant but a little less common. They also tend to look larger than other shapes of the same carat weight because of their elongated outline.

Why people choose it:

  • Unique, eye-catching silhouette
  • Elongated shape makes fingers look longer
  • Looks larger per carat than round or square cuts

Potential downside:
Like ovals, pear shapes are prone to a bow-tie effect which is a dark shadow across the center if the cut proportions aren’t ideal. The pointed tip is also more vulnerable to damage if not protected by a prong.

Prices start around $3,400 for a 1.01 ct G VS2 GIA-certified Pear cut.

Read my full Pear Shaped Diamond Guide.

Marquise Cut Diamond

The marquise cut is one of the boldest and most dramatic diamond shapes. Its long, narrow body with pointed ends gives it a striking, almost vintage elegance that stands out in any setting. Originally commissioned by King Louis XV of France, the shape was meant to resemble the lips of his mistress and it’s definitely a shape with character.

Thanks to its length and narrow width, the marquise cut offers one of the largest face-up areas of any shape per carat. It’s ideal for those who want their diamond to look as big as possible without increasing carat weight.

Why people choose it:

  • Maximum finger coverage
  • Long, elegant silhouette
  • Strong vintage or royal vibe

Potential downside:
Marquise cuts are highly prone to the bow-tie effect and their pointed ends need to be well protected by prongs to avoid chipping. Their shape can also vary widely, some look perfectly balanced, while others appear too narrow or boat-like. Discernment is key.

Prices start around $4,120 for a 1.02 ct H VS2 GIA-certified Marquise cut.

Read my full Marquise Cut Diamond Guide.

Asscher Cut Diamond

The Asscher cut is a square-shaped diamond with deeply trimmed corners and a mesmerizing step-cut facet pattern. It’s often described as the square cousin of the emerald cut, but with a more art deco aesthetic and a bold, symmetrical look when viewed from above.

This shape gained popularity in the 1920s and still carries a strong vintage feel. The Asscher’s step-cut facets form a square, layered pattern that draws the eye inward, creating a bullseye-like effect often called a “hall of mirrors” effect.

Why people choose it:

  • Distinctive vintage look with clean symmetry
  • Great choice for art deco or antique-inspired rings
  • Step-cut facets give a sleek, reflective effect

Potential downside:
Like emerald cuts, the open facets of an Asscher cut make inclusions and color more visible. It also tends to face up smaller than many other shapes, so a higher carat weight may be needed to achieve a substantial look.

Prices start around $4,910 for a 1.01 ct G VS2 GIA-certified Asscher cut.

Read my full Asscher Cut Diamond Guide.

Heart Shaped Diamond

The heart shaped diamond is the most recognizable symbol of love and romance and the boldest way to wear that meaning on your finger. It’s essentially a modified brilliant cut with a cleft at the top and two rounded lobes tapering to a point. When well-cut, it balances symmetry, sparkle and symbolism in a very personal way.

Heart shaped diamonds are far less common than other shapes, which can make them feel more unique or expressive. They’re also more likely to start conversations: this isn’t a subtle choice and that’s part of the appeal for many buyers.

Why people choose it:

  • Deep romantic symbolism
  • Rare and distinctive shape
  • Good brilliance when well-cut

Potential downside:
A heart shape requires excellent symmetry to look balanced, and poor cutting can quickly make the shape look off or awkward. Smaller heart shaped diamonds (under 0.50 carats) can also lose visual clarity, making the shape harder to recognize.

Prices start around $3,150 for a 1.01 ct G VS2 GIA-certified heart cut.

Read my full Heart Shaped Diamond Guide.

New: Octagon Cut Diamond

The octagon cut is a newer entry into the diamond shape world, designed to stand out with its eight sides and crisp, symmetrical form. At first glance, it may look similar to a round brilliant but its geometric edges and slightly angular crown give it a more architectural, modern feel. Think of it as a round-meets-Asscher hybrid, just with a sharper outline.

These cuts are often branded and precision-cut, like the True Hearts™ Octagon offered by James Allen. These diamonds are labeled True Hearts™ because their facet structure is modeled after the round brilliant, using a similar brilliant-style pattern that meets strict symmetry and light performance standards.

Currently, the octagon cut is only available as a lab-grown diamond at James Allen, as this allows for greater precision, consistency and control over such a specialized cut. Lab-grown diamonds offer the material and economic flexibility to support high-performance specialty cuts like the octagon that would be riskier, more wasteful and less predictable with natural rough.

With a symmetrical starburst facet arrangement and a strong emphasis on light return, the octagon cut delivers sparkle levels that rival a round, while offering a shape that’s more distinctive and niche.

Why people choose it:

  • Very Unique, eye-catching shape with a premium finish
  • Still offers excellent brilliance
  • Feels like a modern twist on the classic round

Potential downside:
Because the octagon cut is still new and uncommon, selection is limited and currently available only in lab-grown diamonds. Prices can reflect its premium cutting standards and while most settings can be adjusted, you won’t find as many ready-made designs tailored specifically to eight-sided outlines.

Prices start around $1,670 for a 2.05 ct G VS2 IGI-certified lab-grown octagon cut.

Dedicated guide coming soon.

Fancy-Shaped Diamonds vs. Round: Key Differences

While the round brilliant cut remains the most popular choice overall, fancy-shaped diamonds (everything that isn’t round) offer a wide range of visual styles, price advantages and finger coverage options. If you’re open to more than just the classic round, there are some clear trade-offs worth considering.

Feature Round Cut Fancy Shapes
Cut Grade GIA/IGI cut grade available No official cut grade
Sparkle Max sparkle and brilliance Varies, some sparkle more than others
Face-Up Size Smaller for same carat Often looks larger per carat
Price/Carat Highest Lower
Style Versatility Classic and widely accepted More personality and variety
Ease of Comparison Easier with standardized grading Harder: requires visual inspection

Round diamonds are the only shape with an officially graded cut quality, which makes them easier to evaluate and compare. They also deliver the most consistent sparkle due to their symmetrical facet structure. But they come at a price: round diamonds are more expensive per carat than any other shape because more rough is lost during cutting.

Fancy shapes like oval, cushion, emerald and radiant give you more look for the same budget. Many of them appear larger for their carat weight and they allow for a more personal expression of style. However, fancy shapes don’t receive cut grades and performance can vary a lot, so visual inspection and knowing what to look for becomes more important.

Which Diamond Shape Is Right for You?

Choosing the right diamond shape isn’t just about looks, it’s about what matters most to you. Some shapes sparkle more, some look larger and others say something unique about your style. The best shape for you comes down to how you want the diamond to feel on your hand, what kind of ring design you’re drawn to and how much you want to prioritize size, price or brilliance.

Different shapes don’t just look different, they also interact with color and clarity in unique ways. Some hide flaws well, while others show them off. Here’s a quick guide to help you pick the right quality level for your chosen shape:

Shape Recommended Color Grades Recommended Clarity Grades Why These Grades
Round D-J VS2-SI1 Round cuts hide color and inclusions well so you can go lower without sacrificing beauty
Oval D-H VS2-SI1 Good brilliance masks flaws but color shows more in the tips
Cushion D-H VS1-SI2 Deep cut can hide inclusions well and a slightly warm color is still beautiful
Princess D-H VS1-VS2 Sharp corners make inclusions riskier so clarity matters more
Emerald D-G VVS2-VS1 Large open facets make flaws and color more visible
Radiant D-H VS2-SI1 Strong sparkle hides most imperfections well
Pear D-H VS2-SI1 Tip can trap color but overall brilliance helps with clarity
Marquise D-H VS2-SI1 Elongated shape shows warmth at the ends more easily
Asscher D-G VVS2-VS1 Step cuts reveal clarity issues fast so go higher
Heart D-H VS2-SI1 Symmetry and brilliance help mask minor flaws but color still counts
Octagon D-F VS1-VVS1 Branded precision cuts need top grades to deliver ideal sparkle and value

If you love timeless style and strong performance, round is the safest and most flexible choice. If you’re after something elegant and elongating, try oval or pear. Want bold and modern? Princess or radiant might be a better fit. And if you’re drawn to vintage aesthetics, step cuts like emerald or Asscher offer a quieter, more refined kind of sparkle.

You can also think about your finger shape and hand size: elongated shapes like oval, emerald, and marquise tend to slim and lengthen the appearance of the finger, while round or square cuts keep things more balanced.

In the end, there’s no wrong choice, just the one that reflects you best.

Our Key Takeaway

There’s no single best diamond shape. Just the one that fits your style, priorities and of course your budget. Round remains the most consistent choice if sparkle, cut quality and tradition matter most to you. But fancy-shaped diamonds open the door to better value, more visual size per carat and a chance to express something more personal.

We’ve seen readers have the best overall shopping experience with James Allen and Blue Nile, especially when it comes to shape variety, 360° video views and return policies. Both offer a strong balance of price, selection and service, whether you’re after a classic round or a more niche shape like cushion, emerald or even octagon.

At the end of the day, the right shape is one that makes you look at your hand and smile. If you’re still undecided, use our shape guides to dig deeper or browse a few stones side by side. Sometimes the shape chooses you.

Diamond Shape FAQs

Which diamond shape looks the biggest?

Oval, pear and marquise diamonds tend to look the largest for their carat weight. Their elongated shapes create more finger coverage and often give a bigger visual presence than round or square cuts of the same weight.

Is round always the most expensive shape?

Yes, round diamonds cost more per carat than any other shape. The cutting process wastes more rough material and they’re also in higher demand. If budget is a priority, consider oval or cushion instead: both offer great sparkle at lower prices.

What's the best shape for small hands or fingers?

Elongated shapes like oval, emerald or pear can help lengthen the look of your fingers. If you prefer something more compact, round or Asscher diamonds offer a balanced appearance on smaller hands.

Which diamond shape sparkles the most?

Round brilliant diamonds deliver the most sparkle overall due to their ideal facet pattern and precise symmetry. Radiant and cushion cuts come close, offering strong brilliance in shapes that break away from tradition. A newer standout is the octagon cut, which mimics round-cut light performance through a starburst facet design while adding a sharper, more geometric edge.

What about baguette or trilliant cuts?

Baguettes and trilliants are most often used as accent or side stones rather than center stones. Trilliant cuts, while occasionally used in richer minimalist or three-stone designs, remain rare and are typically handled as custom or accent pieces.