Last Updated on 24th March 2025
The 1920s was the high time for flappers, beatniks, and speakeasies. It’s also the peak of Asscher Cut Diamonds’ popularity. If jazz was the soundtrack and Art Deco was the theme, then Asscher would be the premier engagement ring for this roaring era.
Now, don’t be intimidated by its reputation. The asscher cut may sound expensive, but you can own one without spending a fortune. Take note of the tips below and get to know the true beauty of this gem – beneath all that jazz!
Asscher Cut Diamonds Throughout History
Joseph Asscher was already famous for cutting the world’s largest rough (the 3,106-carat Cullinan) when he developed the Asscher cut in 1902. During that time, the Asscher’s neat lines and massive facets perfectly resonated with the Art Deco period and consequently pioneered the movement.
Newer fancy shapes took the spotlight in the following decades, but thanks to Hollywood, asscher cut diamonds had reclaimed the public eye for the last two decades. After being showcased in “Sex and the City” and Gwyneth Paltrow’s engagement ring, it’s more popular than ever.
The latest celebrity wearer is Pippa Middleton, sister of Kate Middleton. Her stunning engagement ring features a 3-carat asscher cut diamond with a halo of smaller diamonds that’s said to be worth $263,000!
Check out this similar and much affordable diamond I found at James Allen:
The Asscher Cut Makeup
Asscher cut diamonds exhibit a step cutting style with 57 facets and are basically square emerald cuts. Asscher has a smaller table, a higher crown, larger facets, and a length to width ratio of around 1.00:1.00 making it square-looking. And this is also what makes it more brilliant than the classic emerald cut!
You know you have a beautiful asscher if it has an almost octagonal shape and concentric squares that give off a hypnotic effect.
Take a look at these asscher cut diamonds with entrancing patterns:
Different Styles of Faceting
If you’re looking for an ideal pattern that creates that spellbinding feel, there is not one but three! The main faceting styles you’ll see below are fashioned from the number of crown and pavilion steps the Asscher has. Depending on the nature of the rough crystal, the cutter then decides what kind of patterning variety to use.
3 Pavilion and 3 Crown Steps – 0.94 Carat K-VVS2 Asscher Cut Diamond
4 Pavilion and 3 Crown and Steps – 2.01 Carat J-SI2 Square Emerald Cut Diamond
5 Pavilion and 3 Crown Steps – 5.01 Carat G-VS2 Asscher Cut Diamond
It’s important to note that there is no best pattern as each combination can produce a remarkable diamond. Although there is a distinct look that you should be aiming for:
The Windmill
Most salespeople wouldn’t divulge this information so they could set the diamond at a higher price. You wouldn’t see this in a diamond certificate as it’s usually not enough. Asscher cut diamonds possess a “windmill” pattern that should be seen diminishing up to the center of the diamond. So, if the point ends before the middle of the stone, it won’t be able to bear a balanced look.
Just take these diamonds for example:
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1.05 Carat Asscher with an Incomplete Windmill
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0.70 Carat Asscher with a Prominent Windmill
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Cut Proportions
With round diamonds, you can simply trust GIA’s labels. Although they grade polish and symmetry for fancy shapes, it’s not the same for the cut. But worry not as I have compiled the recommended proportions that you can use as a guide:
Specs |
Your Diamond Teacher Recommended Proportions |
Most Affordable Proportions |
| Table % | 61% – 67% | 70% – 72% |
| Depth % | 61% – 67% | 67.1% – 70% |
| Girdle | Very Thin – Slightly Thick | Very Thin – Slightly Thick |
| Culet | None | Very Small |
| Polish/Symmetry | Excellent | Very Good |
Being step cuts, depth (how the light is reflected in a diamond) is not as relevant to asscher cut diamonds compared to brilliant cuts. Since the ideal depth percentage isn’t necessary to sustain brilliance, you can go lower with depth.
Length to Width Ratio
And the shallower the diamond, the bigger it will appear! Thus, I would recommend the classic asscher length to width ratio of 1:00. In fact, if it’s 1:05 or less, it will definitely look square, and if it’s bigger than that, it won’t appear proportioned.
Diamond Color
Now that Cut (the leader of the 4Cs) is out of the picture, the importance of the other factors is amplified. Color is usually driven by demand. The highest grade and the most icy-white color is initially seen as the best. Well, it technically is if you find traditional white diamonds the most appealing.
Carat Size |
Your Diamond Teacher Recommended Proportions |
Most Affordable Proportions |
| .50 or less | D – G | H – I |
| .51 – 1 | D – G | H |
| 1 – 2 | D – F | D – F |
| 2 or more | D – F | D – F |
| Fluorescence | None | Faint |
But some women prefer the warmer shades, and interestingly enough, it’s also more affordable. With asscher cut diamonds, higher color grades are recommended not because society says so, but due to the fact that the near-colorless range will better showcase the bold facets.
Diamond Clarity
Asscher cut diamonds are best enjoyed for their luster and clarity. Brilliant cuts exhibit a unique faceting that allows light to travel across all angles. It produces the fire and scintillation that makes the light dance. Asscher’s role is simple; it’s to highlight its minimal form and showcase its incredible transparency.
Carat Size |
Your Diamond Teacher Recommended Proportions |
Most Affordable Proportions |
| .50 or less | FL – VS2 | SI1 |
| .51 – 1 | FL – VS1 | VS2 |
| 1 – 2 | FL – VVS2 | VS1 – VS2 |
| 2 or more | FL – VVS2 | VS1 |
But given its large facets, you need a VS2 or higher to mask the inclusions that can easily be seen in asscher cut diamonds. You may probably find an eye clean SI1, but you would have to dig deeper!
Finding the Perfect Asscher for You
There’s no shortcut in finding an eye clean diamond, but there is an easy (and secure) way. Thanks to 21st-century technology, we can now inspect asscher cut diamonds through magnified high-quality photos and 360-degree HD videos.
We found it ten times better than viewing at a brick and mortar store or even in person as a typical diamond loupe will only let you see up to x10 magnification. With online diamond stores, it’s up to x40!
There’s a handful of jewelers offering digital showrooms with high-tech imagery, but I would recommend James Allen as it’s currently the number one in diamond display technology.
The Bottomline
Asscher cut diamonds are all about style and feel. It takes the wearer back to that vibrant period and exudes spirited class. This cut is for the feminine, old-fashioned, and the lover of the vintage.
But beyond its famed shape, Asscher cut diamonds display transparency and luster like no other. Remember the tips above, and rest assured, you’ll find one that’s reminiscent of the jazz-infused, Great Gatsby era!
If you need help on filtering through thousands of asscher cut diamonds in the market, feel free to email me. Or drop a comment below. I usually respond within 24 hours! 🙂