Diamond Query: A Highly Detailed Search for the Best Cut Proportions for a Diamond Pendant and an Engagement Ring Upgrade


| Anonymous Reader


Hello Sebastian, please tell me which diamond is the better choice (both are round brilliant):

.49 Carat – 5.10 – 5.13 x 3.12 mm
G, VS1, Fluorescence – None
Triple Excellent
Depth – 61
Table – 56
Crown Angle – 34.7
Pavilion Angle – 40.8
Girdle – Thin – Medium
Culet – None
.55 Carat – 5.24 – 5.27 x 3.27 mm
H, VVS2, Fluorescence – None
Triple Excellent
Depth – 62.2
Table – 56
Crown Angle – 35.3
Pavilion Angle – 40.8
Girdle – Medium – Slightly Thick
Culet – None

The smaller (.49), is $500 less than the .55. It seems like there is about a 1/4 mm size difference – is this minuscule and is it due to the weight being hidden in the girdle of the .55? Which is the best diamond and the best buy between the two? Thank you!

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

Thank you for your inquiry. I am happy to help!

First off, do you have the link to each of these diamonds you are considering, so I can have a visual?

If I am to just go off the specifications that you have listed, I would say either one would be a great choice. But, if I had to choose, I would say the 0.49ct, G, VS1.

The reason being is, the proportions and angles are slightly better than the .55ct. And you might has well enjoy the higher color grade, too! The difference in the millimeters is negligible and will not be detected by the naked eye.

And yes, you are correct, the 0.55 diamond is slightly bottom heavy in the depth and the girdle width. I hope this helps!

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Thank you for your help Sebastian! I'm going with this one like you suggested!

Here are a couple of pictures of the .49. Thanks again!

 

 

 

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

Thanks for the images of the two diamonds! Great! I am glad to help!

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Hello Sebastian!

I have another question about the .49 please. It has a 74% lower half length and 55% star length. I've mostly heard of 75 – 80% lower half length. Is 74% good since all the other proportions and angles are within your super excellent parameters? How does a lower lower-half length affect performance?

Thanks again!

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

It is a non-issue with the lower half length.

Please let me know if there is anything more I can do to help.

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Great! Thank you for sharing your expertise Sebastian!

You and your website have been most useful and helpful!

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

You are very welcome! And thank you!

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Hello Sebastian, I have one more option to choose from if you would please tell me if you would still go with the .49 or this .58:

.58 Carat – 5.34 – 5.38 x 3.28 mm
H, VS-2, Fluorescence – None
Triple Excellent
Depth – 61.2
Table – 59
Crown Angle – 34
Pavilion Angle – 41
Girdle – Medium – Slightly Thick
Culet – None

Please tell me if the weight increase would be significantly visible and worth the proportions of the table being off and the girdle being thicker. Also, the girdle on this .58 is bruted and the girdle on the .49 is faceted.

Would you go with all ideal proportions and angles and color G of the .49, or is the size increase of the .58 significant and the discrepancies minor? Basically, which would you choose? Thank you!

The .49 scored HCA 1.3 (Excellent light return, fire and scintillation) and the .58 scored 1.8 (Excellent light return). Both scored Excellent cut. Still having a hard time deciding. The .58 is $380 more than the .49. Thanks!

PS: I'm sure the .58 is also a great choice and I'd prefer the larger size, as long as it is a notable size increase, not bottom heavy, and as long as I'm not compromising beauty and brilliance with any of its specifications.

From what I've read, a bruted girdle does not impact the appearance or value of the diamond. Looking forward to your input and learning which one you would choose and why. Thanks for your help!

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

You are correct, a bruted versus faceted girdle does not need to be a consideration when deciding between diamonds. Unless, you have a visual preference!

I would suggest going to a store and comparing, side by side two diamonds that are about 0.09 – 0.10 difference in carat weight and see what you think.

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Hello Sebastian,

Thank you for your help. Will you tell me what mm difference it is between the two and if it would be barely noticeable side by side to you? I don't have a good jeweler nearby.

If it will only appear slightly larger – you would have no doubt choosing the .49? Is the .49 the smarter choice? I want my wife to be very pleased, and I want to be satisfied knowing I made the smartest choice of the two. Thanks again for your help and time!

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

This is a very nice gift for your wife.  And I am sure she will love it.

All the diamonds you have selected are a great choice. I understand that there are a lot of details to consider when selecting a diamond.

If you want to make a choice, only based on specifications then the 0.49ct is the choice, however, I have no doubt the 0.58ct looks very pretty and sparkly, as well. At this point, maybe you should go with your instincts!

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Sebastian,

I know you're right! The .49 is the way better choice! I can even see in the close-up photo – the contrast between light and dark and the complexity as compared to the simply bright and colorful .58, and as you've already said, they're so close in size that I would not be able to tell a .09 mm difference side by side. I've really overcomplicated this – it's just been a stressful purchase.

Thanks for helping me make a smart choice and helping me get the best bang for my buck!

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

You are welcome! Just relax into the purchase. You have done all your research and homework.

You have made a great choice. It will be beautiful and your wife will love it. Don't worry!

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Thank you so much! 🙂

 

| Anonymous Reader


Sebastian,

I'm trying to relax into the purchase but I have one more question. We received the .49 diamond pendant necklace in platinum and it is absolutely beautiful! The diamond and setting are both exquisite.

We have a full 30 days where it can be returned for a full refund and we're having second thoughts only about what we paid – $4870. Does this sound like an appropriate price to you for the highest quality diamond and platinum setting?

I'm speaking to a local jeweler who said he just sold a similar spec diamond set in a ring for $2982. To me, a newbie to diamonds, the specs looks like the diamond will appear small and bottom heavy and not as well cut as mine. It's 6 points larger than my .49 and has a smaller diameter and is deeper, plus the girdle variation is thin – slightly thick.

Is this indicative of poor cut quality even though he says it's AGS 000? If so, this could be part of the price difference, plus the ring is 14k yellow gold and our necklace pendant is 950 platinum.

 

Here's the specs for the .54 he sold set in 14k gold for $2982:

Also a G, VS-1 and:
.54, 5×10 x 5.11 x 3.17
Table 56
Depth 61.8
34.6
40.9
Thin-slightly thick
None
AGS 000


The thing that concerns me with going with another jeweler other than Tiffany is the quality, and particularly for the setting and metal work. My wife is very particular and loves Tiffany ‘s thoughtfully engineered, flawless, delicate settings. What would you do? Relax into the purchase, or did I pay too much? Thank you!

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

Hi, I am so happy to hear that you love the 0.49, G, VS-1 diamond and platinum necklace!

That is wonderful!

Regarding what you paid, $4870…yes, that is too high. I am surprised. For example, take a look at preset diamond necklace options from James Allen:

 

James Allen Pre-Set Diamond Pendants

 

Or you can design your own necklace from JamesAllen.com, selecting your own diamond and platinum necklace. If I remember, correctly, your necklace is bezel not prong set, correct?

A platinum bezel set necklace from James Allen is $527 USD, $1680 (Diamond sku 3426698, see below link) for an equivalent diamond to what you have now, which totals $2207 USD with free shipping, life time warranty and free returns within 30 days.

 

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut/0.50-carat-g-color-vs1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-3426698/?a_aid=1212

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut/0.50-carat-g-color-vs1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-3266032/?a_aid=1212

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut/0.52-carat-g-color-vs1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-3444818/?a_aid=1212

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Thanks Sebastian. I will look into these and this vendor. You helped us pick out this .49 though and it is perfect in every way. Icy white, full of rainbow fire, brilliance and scintillation and the platinum chain and 4 prong setting is impeccable. It will be hard to beat.

 

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

Keep me posted!

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Will do!

 

| Anonymous Reader


Hello again Sebastian,

My wife has diamond fever now and since getting the beautiful diamond pendant is now wanting to upgrade her engagement ring. This time we want to try an online vendor for better value. It's hard to know which online store is the best between White Flash, James Allen and Brian Gavin.

Of course, we're looking for the best cut and setting craftsmanship as well as best bang for the buck. She's read that the Vatche U113 solitaire setting is most similar to the Tiffany 6 prong and she loves the Tiffany look but would like to spend less. It seems like only White Flash offers Vatche.

 

Whiteflash Vatche U113 Solitaire Setting

 

What is your experience with these vendors and is there one you recommend over another?

Thanks again!

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

Hello, again! You are in trouble my friend! Next it will be earrings!

So, I recommend JamesAllen.com. They have excellent customer services and products. They have the best HD 360 degree magnified videos of the actual diamonds. And they have excellent images of the ring settings, as well.

I have selected one of their best sellers for you to look at, which is their version of the Tiffany 6-prong solitaire setting:

 

PLATINUM SIX PRONG KNIFE EDGED SOLITAIRE ENGAGEMENT RING

 

Also, James Allen may accept your current wife's diamond as part of their upgrade policy. You will have to inquiry in more detail with them about this, if you are interested.

As far as the new diamond, are you considering a round brilliant cut? I will await your reply.

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Hello Sebastian!

I had to laugh out loud because the wife has already put earrings on her wishlist!

That is a great looking setting. Just what she is looking for. Her current diamond is .47 princess cut K VS2. We're considering a round brilliant. Somewhere around .70 I think would be a nice size for her size 6 ring finger and love the G VS1 pendant so thinking to stick with that combo or a range of G-H and VS1-2. I found one earlier today on White Flash. I'll send the link.

 

0.706 ct G VS1 A CUT ABOVE Hearts and Arrows Diamond

 

Please tell me what you think of it and if I would get something similar for less at James Allen. I let White Flash know I learned about them from you! Thanks for letting me know about the possible upgrade credit. Thanks again my friend!

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

I am ready when you are to start the diamond earring search!

The Whiteflash diamond is an excellent selection. I did, however, find the perfect diamond from JamesAllen.com for $3370.

They also offer a bank-wire price, which you can inquire about with them, if interested in a further discount. Take a look at Diamond Sku 3635663:

 

0.70 CARAT G-VVS2 TRUE HEARTS IDEAL DIAMOND

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Good morning!  Thanks Sebastian!

Have you received any negative feedback on either White Flash or James Allen as far as workmanship with the settings/prongs? Happy holidays to you!

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

Hello Sebastian,

Whiteflash and James Allen are both very reputable companies. I can, however, only speak on behalf of James Allen, since I have friends which have ordered from them. And the craftsmanship of their jewelry is excellent.

They have a quality assurance team that carefully reviews every piece of jewelry before it ships to the customer. If jewelry does not pass their strict inspection standards, then they remake or repair the jewelry before shipping it out to the customer.

If you receive the ring and you have an issue, the customer service team is excellent and will handle it accordingly. They offer free resizing within the first 60 days of purchase, in case the ring doesn't fit right, too!

You can also read the customer reviews for both, which may help you in your decision-making process. Please let me know any additional questions you have!

 

 

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

Haha! I just noticed I said “Hello Sebastian”! Sorry! I must be tired!

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Haha! I just looked at the diamond you sent from JA and is it not a bit bottom heavy with the 62 depth and the medium to slt thick girdle? In comparison to the WF it has less spread for the weight.

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

Hi, I appreciate your attention to detail! However, if you compare the millimeter measurements between the two, you will see there is practically no difference:

Whiteflash diamond mm measurements are 5.73 x 5.75 x 3.52

James Allen diamond mm measurements are 5.69 x 5.65 x 3.53

Either diamond is an excellent choice. I want you to select the one that you feel most comfortable with. Please let me know any additional questions.

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Haha!  I'm splitting hairs again! 😉

Seriously though, the one you sent me from JA doesn't meet your criteria for a super excellent ideal cut! It has a medium to slightly thick girdle. I'm not going to budge outside those super ideal specs in any category now that I've seen this perfect diamond pendant you helped us with! 😉 Thanks again!

 

| Anonymous Reader


Hey Sebastian! Would you choose this one or the .70 I sent you from White Flash?

0.804 ct G VS2 A CUT ABOVE Hearts and Arrows Diamond 0.706 ct G VS1 A CUT ABOVE Hearts and Arrows Diamond

Thanks again!

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

Hahaha!  We are splitting hairs, again! And I like the way you are holding me to my own information on my website. You are tough!

So, again, either one of these is perfect, really. If price were a non-issue, then I would select the 0.80ct. You might as well go for a slightly larger diamond. Go big or go home! That's the expression, right?!

 

0.804 ct G VS2 A CUT ABOVE Hearts and Arrows Diamond

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Haha! I'm a good hair splitter, and yes, I am tough! I'm going to go for it with the bigger one! Go big!

I really appreciate your help and support and making diamond buying much easier, and fun!

If it weren't for your help with the pendant, when my wife thought it had to be from Tiffany, we would have ended up with just an ok overpriced diamond instead of the super excellent one.

Thank you very much!

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Hey Sebastian, I'm back with another question!

I was wondering about the dark spot on the top right corner of the heart at 11 o'clock and on the light performance images at 3 o'clock on the table area and I asked WF and they said it was from the crystal inclusions. Does this mean this is a dark crystal and that it's blocking the light return?

On the plot, the inclusions are in one spot, but in the images, it's creating the dark spots in these two different areas. Is this anything to be concerned about or reason for considering a different diamond? I checked out quite a few other diamond's images and didn't see these black spots like in the images of the .804. Thank you for your feedback!

 

0.804 ct G VS2 A CUT ABOVE Hearts and Arrows Diamond

 

Your Diamond Teacher |

 

Welcome back! The crystal inclusion will not impede the diamonds light performance. And you are seeing it more than once due to the reflection.

 

 

| Anonymous Reader


Haha thanks! I was just having another freak out, but thanks for setting my mind at ease!

 

 

About 

Sebastian Naturski loves to write about diamonds and share his knowledge with his readers.
When he is not working on his website he is studying law at Humboldt University of Berlin.
He has taken part in several international law competitions and likes to broaden his horizons.
His other big passion are languages. He is fluent in German, English, Polish and Japanese and got basic skills in French and Spanish as well.